Firstly, you need to cut three M6 threads in the bottom yoke bosses – 1 is already tapped and holds the brake line guide. The pilot holes are already there so you just need a tap to cut the threads – only carry out this task if you are familiar with the process.

The yoke is made from aluminium so it is easy to strip or cross-thread the holes.

The threads need to be at least 20mm deep.


Once you have tapped the holes, make sure they are clear of swarf.


Remove the screw holding the brake guide so you now have four threaded holes onto which you can mount the fender-extension bracket.


You need to install one of the thick black spacers in each hole location plus one of the black washers – no washer is required for the brake-guide hole as the wire is the same thickness of the washers.


Install the new fasteners in turn as shown, taking care not to overtighten 5Nm will be sufficient.


With the new bracket installed, align the fender piece onto the bracket and note that you need to drill an additional hole in the plastic corresponding to the rear slot in the bracket.

Align the front hole in the fender piece to the front of its corresponding slot, then mark the corresponding position in the rear slot – a 6mm hole needs to be drilled here.


Attach the fender piece with the new fasteners provided.

If drilled correctly, the fender piece will move forward/backwards in the slot to allow you to fine-tune the position you want.


Regularly check fasteners for security.